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As the original Master Distiller behind Don Julio and now the founder of Tequila Tromba, Marco Cedano is a pioneering figure in the world of premium tequila.

In this exclusive interview, he reflects on his journey, offers expert insights into agave, terroir, and aging, and provides actionable advice for restaurateurs looking to curate standout tequila experiences.

1. From Don Julio to Tequila Tromba: A Vision for Quality and Innovation

Q: Marco, as the original Master Distiller of Don Julio, you played a pivotal role in the premiumization of tequila. Could you share what inspired you to create your own brand, Tequila Tromba, and how it has evolved over the years?

A:
Back then, the industry lacked real control over its manufacturing processes. The Trade Authority conducted company inspections. The environment readily lent itself to practices prohibited under proper regulatory oversight.

When I entered the industry, the factory where I worked exported tequila with a very small amount of agave while carefully maintaining compliance with all requirements for the domestic market. The problem was that 95% of production was to be exported.

This motivated me to believe that ALL the tequila I produced should be of the highest possible quality. That’s why I began seeking ways to develop yeast for 100% agave, precise cooking methods, proper fermentations, and more careful distillations.

Then, I thought: “Why did I pursue one of the most demanding university degrees if I can’t innovate and improve processes – the very reason we were trained?”

2. The Role of 100% Blue Weber Agave in Premium Tequila

Q: In your article, you highlight the importance of 100% Blue Weber agave in crafting premium tequila. How does the quality of agave affect the overall flavor profile, and why is it so essential for restaurateurs to use this in their offerings?

A:
The use of 100% agave in tequila is of paramount importance. In my experience, the most significant agave-related factors affecting tequila quality are:

a) Using immature (non-ripe) agaves: immature agaves have significantly fewer congeners that differ in complexity. This requires a more extensive removal process of “heads” and “tails” during distillation to stay within permitted limits. This results in more neutral tequilas, lacking characteristic aromas and flavors and sometimes exhibiting undesirable ones.

b) Agave that is showing signs of internal or external pest infestation (like fungi, bacteria, or insects).

c) Although there isn’t extensive research to support this, simply use your senses during distillation and take note of unusual qualities beyond production standards – such as bitter, foul odors, etc. In such cases, there’s little recourse. The only option might be blending it with an unaffected product to reduce the impact.

Mature agave should be used and harvested so that approximately 2 cm of the leaf remains to retain chlorophyll. This ensures fresh, herbal notes are present in the end product. Agave should exhibit good overall health, with a well-formed, spherical piña, free from signs of damage to the piña or heart after splitting.

3. Agave Terroir: Highland vs. Lowland Regions

Q: You speak of the terroir of agave, particularly the differences between highland and lowland agave. How can restaurateurs effectively utilize this knowledge to enhance their tequila selection and create a memorable experience for their guests?

A:
More important than the agave itself is that the tequila is 100% agave. The characteristics of agaves from the Altos and Valle regions are quite similar, but the Altos region stands out because its lands were opened to intensive agave cultivation relatively recently—less than 100 years ago, compared to over 300 years in the Valle.

Another advantage is that being a higher altitude region (+2,000 meters above sea level), the average annual temperature in the Altos is approximately 5–6 degrees Celsius lower (roughly 1 degree per 100 meters).

The colder temperature causes the plant to react—as a self-protective mechanism—generating a large amount of sugars. This makes sugar content higher in the Altos region agave.

On the other hand, the reddish soil of the Altos region exhibits a high iron content (ferritic soils), apparently allowing for a different nutritional profile and resulting in different congeners compared to those from the Valle. While some studies are out there, their precision is limited, and further research is needed.

The soils of the Valle are “black,” with a higher clay content, retaining significantly more water and potentially leading to greater root rot.

Altos agave is generally larger and heavier, with higher sugar concentrations than standard Valle agave. However, new cultivation techniques like soil analysis before planting and the use of fertilizers and agrochemicals to control pests are progressively reducing the difference between the two regions.

4. Aging Tequila and Culinary Pairings

Q: The aging process of tequila plays a significant role in developing different flavor profiles. Can you explain the differences between Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo tequilas and how they pair with various types of cuisine?

A:
Aged tequilas must meet certain regulatory requirements regarding barrel type and wood. For Tromba, the aging times significantly exceed those specified by the NOM (Norma Oficial Mexicana) for tequila.

I personally define the barrel aging time for our products, assisted by our distillery’s process team. Therefore, Tromba tequilas are characterized as follows:

Blanco:

Only diluted to adjust the alcohol concentration (% Alc. Vol.) permitted in each market, filtered, and bottled. No other processes are employed. While regulations allow for oak barrel aging up to 2 months, we do not age our Blanco tequila in this way.

Reposado: (NOM minimum barrel aging: 2 months)

Matured in American white oak barrels, previously used for Bourbon or American Whiskey, for 6 to 8 months, depending on the quality of the barrel. We sample the batch to determine if further aging is needed.

Our Reposados exhibit a near-perfect balance between the freshness and herbal notes of the original Blanco tequila, enhanced with subtle vanilla and caramel flavors from the wood and cooked agave.

Añejo: (NOM minimum barrel aging: 1 year)

Matured in American white oak barrels previously used for Bourbon or American Whiskey. Our Añejo matures for 18 to 22 months. Medium-toasted barrels provide sweet notes of vanilla, dark chocolate, and soft red fruits. This product is recognized for its complexity, a direct result of extended aging and wood interaction.

Food Pairings:

• Blanco: Minerality, herbal, green, fruity—great with oysters, salt, pepper, and lemon.

• Reposado: Earthy minerality, vanilla, toasted—excellent with spicy smoked fish like marlin.

• Añejo: Wood, leather, red fruits, chocolate—ideal with desserts, dark chocolate, or cigars.

Restaurants should consider building specific menus and moments of the day around these pairings.

5. Bringing Tequila to the Cocktail Menu with Confidence

Q: As premium tequila continues to rise in popularity, how can restaurants incorporate it into their cocktail menus to offer something truly unique and appealing to their customers?

A:
Try offering products that don’t rely on high prices to imply naturalness and authenticity. First, conduct tastings to select them, regardless of whether they’re from large or small producers.

When you encounter excessive sweetness in aroma and flavor, noticeable viscosity, and an ephemeral mouthfeel, it’s likely a tequila made with numerous additives. The production process of a good tequila shouldn’t exhibit such exaggerated characteristics.

I know several “ultra-premium,” “ultra-expensive” tequila brands that fall into this category, distinguished by their sophisticated bottles or presentation. Beware! High price doesn’t automatically equate to high quality.

Ask if there’s a recognized true maestro tequilero (master tequila maker) behind the product. Present your chosen tequila on your menu with confidence—e.g., “Quality verified by our staff.”

6. Misconceptions and Consumer Education

Q: You’ve emphasized the importance of authenticity in premium tequila production. In your experience, what are the most common misconceptions people have about tequila, and how do you educate consumers on what makes a premium tequila like Tromba stand out?

A:
Everything stated previously supports the idea of recognizing authenticity. Misconceptions abound – from the belief that tequila is made from cactus and directly extracted from the plant in the field (like pulque) to the notion that it’s an aphrodisiac.

However, the greatest confusion in the market stems from the type of agave used, cooking methods, and distillation equipment and materials because there is incomplete or inaccurate information surrounding all of these aspects.

A crucial, albeit long-term, task is educating consumers on two key geographical points: the bar and the distillery.

Tromba has undertaken this from the beginning, understanding it’s the longest and most costly path, but fundamental for recognizing us as an authentic product, original in its production, and a true “craft” tequila.

This has been achieved by personally visiting bars and engaging directly with bartenders. We provide talks about our processes and methods, directly from someone with a recognized history in producing high-quality tequilas.

We regularly invite and transport these key collaborators behind the bar to visit our facilities, where we produce and age our tequila in barrels before bottling and the agave fields during the jima harvesting process. This allows them to witness firsthand the veracity of everything we convey at their places of work.

These bartenders, bar owners, restaurant managers, etc., represent the first line of education, educating others when they approach seeking to consume tequila.

7. Looking Ahead: The Future of Premium Tequila in Restaurants

Q: With your extensive background in the industry, how do you foresee the future of premium tequila evolving, particularly in the restaurant industry? What trends do you believe restaurateurs should be aware of when selecting spirits for their menus?

A:
This is currently a segment experiencing the highest growth. It’s a great opportunity for restaurants and bars to acquire good brands to offer the best quality at a fair price.

Strive to offer innovative ways to consume tequila—both in cocktails and otherwise. Perhaps chilling it and offering it in an Old Fashioned glass without ice. Novelty! Step outside the routine. Remember: it’s an expensive product and should be worth it.

Similarly, as mentioned before, be cautious about acquiring the most expensive tequilas assuming that they’re the best.

Don’t follow trends; instead, apply what I’ve mentioned: conduct preliminary tastings of the products you’ll offer. Blind tastings are best. When you select those “extremely intense in aroma and flavor,” be skeptical, even if they seem delightfully sweet or fruity.

Rank them from most to least “intense” and then analyze the results versus price. Finally, conduct two tests before deciding which to buy:

1. Cocktail Test: Prepare a cocktail familiar to you using each tequila and determine which has the greatest impact. Compare it to your baseline.

2. 24-Hour Test: Pour a small amount of each tequila into a glass (like a Riedel tequila glass or champagne flute). Dilute with water to about 1/3, stir, and let sit for 24 hours.

   • If aroma is significantly diminished, it likely contains additives.

   • If it smells foul (like fats), the distillation was poor.

   • If it smells putrid, that suggests bad bacterial fermentation—another sign of poor production.