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Michelin-Starred Chef Paul Welburn Brings Refined Dining to Rural Cornwall with Fern

As Cornwall’s dining landscape evolves, Michelin-starred chef Paul Welburn has chosen a quiet rural corner of the county for his next chapter. Known for earning a star at The Oxford Kitchen and honing his craft under the late Gary Rhodes, Paul has opened Fern — a refined yet relaxed restaurant in Nanstallon, just outside Bodmin.

Bringing his modern British style to a countryside setting, he pairs ever-changing, seasonal small plates with a firm commitment to local growers and artisan producers. Fern’s arrival marks both a new culinary destination for Cornwall and a considered investment in its wider hospitality community.

We spoke with Paul to discuss the move from Oxford to Cornwall, the philosophy behind Fern’s menu, and what it really takes to build a restaurant off the beaten track.

What drew you from Oxford to Cornwall, and why did you choose Nanstallon as the home for Fern?

I moved from Oxford to Cornwall for family reasons. My partner has lived here for more than 16 years, and after we had our daughter, we decided it was the right place to raise a family. Finding the next project was the challenge, but being close to the restaurant meant the opportunity came out of nowhere. Now we have a starting point to build and evolve.

How would you describe the style and philosophy behind Fern’s menu?

Relaxed, unpretentious, ever-changing and seasonal. It’s refined dining, not fine dining — approachable and great value, all set in a fantastic site and location.

Local produce clearly plays a big role. How do you approach sourcing ingredients?

We’ve started with a core list of local suppliers, plus a few trusted partners from further afield. Now that we’re open, we’ll continue developing that list — adding great local producers, replacing ones that don’t work and letting time, trust and product quality guide those relationships.

Opening a refined dining restaurant in a rural area must come with unique challenges. What has that experience been like?

We’re not aiming for fine dining — we want refined dining in a relaxed space. Being off the beaten track with no footfall definitely has challenges, but restaurants across the country are facing similar situations.

This building has never been a restaurant, which makes visibility harder, but it also gives us complete freedom to create something new — a place locals will enjoy and food-lovers will travel to. Opening in winter in Cornwall hasn’t been easy, but we’re building and evolving every day.

Is there a signature dish that captures what Fern is all about?

The menu changes so often that creating “signatures” isn’t what we’re aiming for. That said, the snack section will likely become our recognisable feature.

• Davidstow savoury custard creams with blueberry ketchup — a nod to my childhood.
• Crispy pig with burnt apples — like a bite-sized Sunday pork-and-apple roast.
• Hash browns, taramasalata and cucumber — a small take on fish, chips and tartare.
  They’re perfect to start a meal — or to enjoy with a pint and some nibbles.

How has your Michelin-star experience shaped the way you approach Fern?

It’s about maintaining the same level I’ve always cooked at. Even though the food here is relaxed, it’s not simple. My head chef and I keep the same standards, techniques and attention to detail, which lifts the food above anything currently available locally.

How do you see Fern contributing to the wider Cornish hospitality scene?

I hope we can complement the existing food scene, not compete with it. We want to become another strong venue for Cornwall. With suppliers, we’ll keep adding more local producers and shining a light on the incredible artisan makers here.

How do you balance creativity with making dishes approachable?

I cook food I enjoy eating. We want dishes that excite people and encourage them to try something new, which is why we’ve chosen small plates. Guests can order however they like — share, keep things individual, or stop when they’re full.

We’re not using anything too unusual; it’s more about techniques and flavour combinations I believe in. We want to be accessible, good value and generous. We’re not interested in copy-and-paste menus or dishes that stay forever — that’s not the kind of restaurant I want to run.

Are there any upcoming plans or seasonal developments at Fern you’re excited about?

The menu changes constantly with the seasons. Right now, we’re gearing up for Christmas, so festive dishes and party bookings are taking shape.

Next year, we’re planning wine-tasting events, foraging lunches and potentially a few guest-chef four-hand dinners — that will be my focus for 2026.

When spring and summer arrive, the terrace will come to life. We’re in the early planning stages, and it will be a major addition to the business.

What advice would you give chefs considering opening a restaurant outside major cities?

Concept and vision are key. It’s easier when you’re starting with a completely new site; taking over existing venues comes with history. Every area has challenges and advantages, but great food, strong teams and well-designed spaces don’t have to rely on fine dining or overworked concepts.

Everyone in the business — owners, managers, chefs — has to share the same vision. If that’s solid and everyone believes in it, you’ve got the best chance to succeed. And of course, a bit of luck helps too.